Ode to Durango
Have you ever wanted to summit a mountain before breakfast? How about ride your bike along a river filled with rafters, kayakers and the occasional surfer? Or maybe just chill out on a sun-filled lawn (or soak in a hot spring) and drink some delicious wine while staring at gorgeous terrain? Sounds like a dream, right?
My boyfriend and I visited Durango a year ago in May 2021. Back then he was traveling around the country in a trailer, and I was living in downtown Houston. We converged upon Durango and spent a week together at the Alpen Rose RV Park. Sitting in our camping chairs, staring at the red cliffs with the tree leaves swaying in the breeze, we thought "yeah this place is pretty sweet." As two people who love to hike and generally be outdoors, Durango felt like paradise. We left vowing to come back. Little did we know we'd be living here less than 6 months later.
I wrote down what we did during that one week trip, so I wouldn't forget. Reviewing the list after living here for almost 6 months, I would say we did pretty good! These are tried and true and still some of my favorites.
Our first trip to Durango
What to Do
Massage: The Woodhouse Spa It's right on the river and they give you champagne. Need I say more?
Hot Springs: Durango Hot Springs They have several pools at different temperatures and you can even have your own private hot tub if you go when it's not crowded. They also have a bar and food truck as well as live music.
Bicycle rental: 2nd Ave Sports. Located downtown, I rented a shiny red gravel bike for $20. Two thumbs up.
Day Trip: Drive to Silverton! It's a cute mountain town that will make you say "Wow I can't believe people actually live here!".. for multiple reasons :) Stop at Molas Lake (so pretty) on your way there or back and eat a yummy breakfast at the Lone Spur Cafe.
If you have 1 day to hike, do the Animas Mountain Trail. This has some of the most rewarding views I've ever seen for such a short hike. Do it, you must.
If you have 2 days to hike, I recommend Castle Rock. It's a little strenuous but the views are well worth it! The hike along Vallecito Creek is also another great option as well as the Colorado Trail which ends in Durango.
If you're more into concrete paths, the Animas River Trail offers nice views and several bridges that are fun to cross. Biking this trail is fun too!
Where to Eat
Fancy pants: Eolus (ask if their upstairs patio is open) and El Moro
Not so fancy pants: Switchback . Their house margarita is pre-made and on-tap and frankly I don't give a damn because it's one of the best margs I've ever tasted. (And that's coming from someone who lives in Texas and almost never passes up a marg if it's on the menu.)
Patio vibes: 11th Street Station is essentially a food truck park made into one cohesive restaurant. Breakfast/brunch is a great time to go as Backcountry Gourmet has the yummiest breakfast burrito and Taste has great coffee. The bar there also serves mimosa's.
Best Setting: James Ranch. Move over fancy "farm-to-table" restaurants, it's time to eat at an actual farm, in a cute patch of grass with a picnic table of course. Make sure to order a side of fries; they are delicious.